Free Spirits in Amsterdam
"Free spirits" is one of the characteristics that Amsterdam is particularly known for, not just for it's liberal attitude when it comes to law enforcement. The embracement of free spirits is (metaphorically and quite often literally) in the air.
Compare to other European cities I've been to, it's not as romantic as Paris, historic as Rome or nearly as bright as Sorrento. Months after I left Amsterdam, I am finally able to put Amsterdam in words. It's slightly gloomy, distant, educated yet edgy. Modern trains run along side with century old canals and stone bridges ; Streets are organized yet full of fearless cyclists (and even more fearless pedestrians). Amsterdam is precisely Amsterdam, it was blooming with free spirits.
Perhaps it was Amsterdam's free spirited nature, the art flourishes here. Cutting through countless canals, we found ourselves at the Van Gogh museum, a tribute to one of the most celebrated painters. Not just known for his paintings, Van Gogh was also known for a specific tragic incident of self-inflicted severing of his left ear, which he portrayed in one of his paintings. This was the second museum that I've been to that is dedicated to a single artist. Compare to the first time, which was the Picasso museum in Barcelona, I felt immensely more appreciative and connected to how the artist's life unfolded as I browse through each frame.
Right across the Museum square is Rijksmuseum - the most visited museum in the Netherlands. The building is much more historical and elegant, but also has large panels of glass built into the structure.
The atrium is bright and airy...
opening up a space for the mind to wonder....
Rijksmueum houses artworks from countless famous Dutch artists, including Vermeer and Rembrant. Most works that I saw were either themed around politics or focused on everyday people and things. I've never studied art extensively, but I feel such somberness yet conflict throughout the visit. Walking down the Gallery of Honour, the dark arona walls accentuate the paintings in a way I've never seen before.
Having read the book, watched the movie and seen pictures of Girl with a Pearl Earring many times, I was very excited to see Vermeer's work in person. Although Girl with a Pearl Earring was in The Hague and The Milkmaid was actually on loan, there was The Love Letter. Between the classed society and emotions about love, Vermeer highlighted the everyday conflict we live through.
Halfway down the Gallery of Honour is my favorite piece from the visit - The Threatened Swan by Jan Asselijn. The fierce swan protecting its eggs with inscriptions "Holland" on them represents the highest official of the Netherlands, Johan, de Witt, defending his country from its enemies. With a firm stance, spread wings and fearless confrontation with its enemy ; instead of being an oxymoron, the grace and pride of a swan coexisted with its protective instinct.
At the very end of the hall, The Night Watch by Rembrant awaits us. The painting almost fills up the wall, just like many things in life, I had to step back to gain perspective. Rembrant's brush strokes are incredibly soft, detailed and blended, yet the figures in the painting are firm and somber. With a masterful use of light and darkness, Rembrant highlighted 3 key figures within the painting, with two being gentlemen and one being a young woman, adding a dosage of femininity in a military setting.
Towards the end of the visit, I came across a landscape painting of a windmill, one of the Netherlands' symbol to me. The sky was blue and the grass was a lively green ; everything in the painting presents such clarity, peace and tranquility. Yet the very existence of a windmill is wind, something that cannot be seen directly. We only know it was there because of the collateral movements from other objects or because we felt it. What else is there in the painting? It kept me wondering.
Never did I expected to see such artistic expression of the Netherlands' free spirits in Amsterdam. Until today my thoughts are flowing...