Catching the Wave

After I booked my flights to Hawaii, I've been asking myself, what's the most "Hawaiian" experience I can have? Then out there in riding the wave on a surf board, I found it.

I've never been someone who will be content lying on a beach chair for the entire vacation, even if that means staring at the blending blueness between the ocean and clear blue sky with a Pina Colada in my hand. 

Over 8 years ago, I took a group surfing lesson on a beach with cold sea water in early spring near Melbourne, Australia. Without a wet suit, I could barely feel my toes. But I always remembered till today the feeling of satisfaction and thrill when I stood up on that surf board. 

Surfing is to have said started in Hawaii in the 18th century. What's special to me is that you can't surf anywhere, even though you can technically snorkel or scuba dive anywhere in the ocean! With the gentle and beginner friendly waves at Waikiki Beach, it was the true Hawaiian thing on my agenda. 

With a few simple moves, but careful not to rush, you will be standing on the surf board feeling the movement of the wave pushing you forward. With some gentle leaning, I learnt to turn. With the eagerness to challenge myself, I learnt to switch stands. 

With only 1 hour of semi-private lesson, I wasn't able to immerse in the surf culture. But within that hour, I learnt that surfing isn't about being cool and the look! It's about your patience, waiting for the right wave to come along and being struck down by waves and keep getting up. It's about gaining momentum and getting up at the right moment. It's about your (arm) strength to keep paddling out to the ocean while the waves push you in the opposite direction. However, in the end of the day, it's about the rewarding feeling that you caught the waves. 

PS. With my awesome surfing coach!